BY STEVE BISSON
© Erwin Blumenfeld, cover of Vogue Magazine, 1945 ‘Do your part for the Red Cross’
I recently met with Klaus Fructhnis, our contributor editor for France. Klaus is Chair of Photography at Paris College of Art. He is an educator and attentive observer of trends and developments in photography. So it’s always a good chance to talk with him. This time we focused on an issue that we do not tackle often on Urbanautica: fashion. Yet we are concerned. Why? New developments in technology are making us somewhat more careful in the way we appear rather than look. Compared to the past where our images were bound to more intimate family album or our secret drawers, today, everything is turned outside. Furthermore let’s not forget that many photographers eke out a living with commercial work often related to the fashion industry. So I’ve asked Klaus to talked a bit about the Master in Fashion Film and Photography at PCA.
Klaus Fructhnis (KF): Paris, like Milan and London, is doubtlessly a fashion capital that plays a key role in the world of fashion, as suggested by the many fashion photography agencies, magazines, fashion designers brand, fashion weeks, etc., It’s a vibrant international market for fashion photographers. Furthermore, the international dimension of both the city and Paris College of Art provide a unique platform for students who would aspire to experience an internship or work abroad.
© Erwin Blumenfeld (1897–1969) was a photographer and artist born in Germany. He was best known for his fashion photography published in Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar in the 1940s and 1950s. In addition to fashion photography, he produced an extensive body of celebrity portraiture, fine-art photography (including black and white nudes), drawings, and Dada collages. [Source: Wikipedia]
Tell us about the Master of Arts (MA) in Fashion Film and Photography at PCA
KF: The Master of Arts (MA) in Fashion Film and Photography is a one-year program in Photography with a specific focus on fashion, aimed at emerging photographers interested in specializing in fashion. Professional practice of fashion photographers today increasingly includes film, so moving image will be taught alongside still. The proposed MA meets the demands of an expanding market for fashion advertising through storytelling in photography and film, using social media and capitalizing on the ability to reach large audiences at reduced cost through online marketing. Many young fashion brands rely entirely on films distributed online, and festivals devoted to fashion films, like the one pioneered in Paris by Diane Pernet, and this phenomenon is doubtlessly growing.
© Richard Avedon, ‘Martha Graham with the Martha Graham Dance Company, New York, 1961. [Source: Richard Avedon Foundation].
Students with an undergraduate background in photography and demonstrated technical skills (black & white and color photography, light, common software programs for editing) will be considered for admission. The program combines technical knowledge and principles of photography/film research and theory. Studio classes and workshops conducted by professionals emphasize the mastery of contemporary techniques and professional practices, while theory-based and methodology courses help students develop their personal creative visions. Thanks to internships during the fashion weeks held in Paris several times a year, students will be well prepared to enter the job market and will have started to create a professional network.
Students specialize in photography/film, choosing to produce a final portfolio of either still or moving images, while at the same time continuing to broaden their knowledge and skills through supportive art & design courses and electives. Since graduates are expected to join the job market upon graduation, the focus of the program is on studio and research, rather than on scholarship and preparation for teaching.
How is this program cutting edge in contrast to other MA/MFA programs?
KF: The cutting edge curriculum emphasizes practiced-based learning and focuses on personal and professional development. The program combines technical knowledge and principles of photography & film research and theory. Studio classes and workshops conducted by active and prestigious professionals emphasize the mastery of contemporary techniques and professional practices, while theory-based and methodology courses help students develop their personal creative visions. Thanks to internships during the fashion weeks held in Paris several times a year, students will be well prepared to enter the job market and will have started to create a professional worldwide network.
What is the range of disciplines from which the students will be pooled?
KF: We seek to have a highly diverse student group. Candidates from backgrounds including art, editorial, photography and film are all encouraged to apply.
© Richard Avedon, Magazine ‘Egoïste’ No.10‚ Andy Warhol, Paris, 1987
How do you know if the program is right for you?
KF: This one-year program is for students and emerging professionals who want to specialize in fashion and moving image. The proposed MA meets the demand of an expanding market for fashion advertising through storytelling in photography and film, using social media and capitalizing on the ability to reach large audiences for a reduced cost through online marketing. If you’re interested in new communication channels in the fashion industry and learning and working in the capital of fashion that is Paris, this is a program for you.
What are the prerequisites?
KF: The program is open to any applicant who has successfully completed an undergraduate degree (BFA, BA, BSc, BID, BArch, etc.) with a studio component, or acquired basic technical skills (photography, video, editorial, editing software, printing, lighting, etc.) through other educational or professional experiences. Your previously acquired technical skills and creative potential will be evaluated through your portfolio.
© Annie Leibovitz, John Lenon & Yoko Ono, New York, 1980. On December 8, 1980, Leibovitz had a photo shoot with John Lennon for Rolling Stone, and she promised him he would make the cover.[9] She had initially tried to get a picture with just Lennon alone, as Rolling Stone wanted, but Lennon insisted that both he and Yoko Ono be on the cover. Leibovitz then tried to re-create something like the kissing scene from the couple’s Double Fantasy 1980 album cover, a picture Leibovitz loved, and she had John remove his clothes and curl up next to Yoko on the floor. Leibovitz recalls, “What is interesting is she said she’d take her top off and I said, ‘Leave everything on'—not really preconceiving the picture at all. Then he curled up next to her and it was very, very strong. You couldn’t help but feel that he was cold and he looked like he was clinging on to her. I think it was amazing to look at the first Polaroid and they were both very excited. John said, 'You’ve captured our relationship exactly. Promise me it’ll be on the cover.’ I looked him in the eye and we shook on it.”[10] Leibovitz was the last person to professionally photograph Lennon—he was shot and killed five hours later. [Source: Wikipedia]
What is the advantage of enrolling in this program in its first year?
KF: The boldest ideas are generally implemented first. Fashion film & photography evolve and its codes constantly change over time, and waiting for the program to mature means you are missing the opportunity to get involved now. Faculty will work all the harder to mold the program to the needs of individual students in the first year. The faculty in the program are well-established fashion photographers and professionals in Paris, and have substantial teaching experience (Michael Daks, Ana Bloom, Tatiana Grigorenko, Susan Bright, Lily Templeton, among others.)
Are there other graduate students at PCA?
KF: PCA launched the MA/MFA in Transdisciplinary New Media in fall 2015, and is launching a total of 4 new MA programs in 2016 (in addition to this MA in Fashion Film and Photography: MA in Accessories Design: Jewelry and Leather Goods; MA in Fashion Design: New Materials & Technologies; and MA in Interior Design). PCA also collaborates with Toulouse Business School in offering English language MSc degrees in marketing and communication specializing in the fashion and luxury industries; and with the French engineering school École de Ponts in offering English language Master’s degrees in Computational Design These programs draw student from around the world to the PCA campus.
© The 1969 Pirelli calendar photographed by Harri Peccinotti. Harry Peccinotti (also known as Harri Peccinotti) (born 1935) is an English photographer, best known for his erotic work, most famously two Pirelli Calendars published in 1968 and 1969. He remains an influential figure in art and fashion photography. His work as art director of the UK fashion magazine Nova is widely considered as being influential for its graphic design as well as photography.He published a retrospective of his life’s work called book HP (2009). [Source: Wikipedia]
What are concrete projects students can expect to complete?
KF: This program focuses on technical skills and cognitive needs that arise from the continuous development of the fashion industry. Students will be able to:
- Create fashion films and advertising campaigns, look books, catalogues and window displays;
- Conceive and produce fashion shoots and films (model direction, lighting techniques, editing, concept and storytelling);
- Coordinate the creation of photo editorials, both printed and online;
- Manage a team, discussing and integrating the work of other professionals such as fashion stylists, make-up artists and art directors for the creation of work charged with aesthetic content;
- Create blogs and online magazines in order to use social media and capitalizing on the ability to reach large audiences for a reduced cost through online marketing.
- Respond to professional commissions.
How do faculty facilitate the collaborative work?
KF: Our PCA faculty, all active professionals, is best suited to impart the skills and knowledge required to prepare students to enter a rapidly changing professional world. They facilitate much the way a project manager would-by having a weekly meeting to make sure everyone is working towards a commonly defined goal. Then they break down to smaller teams/individuals to define milestones and address any difficulties.
© Colors Magazine. ‘Extraordinary Fashion’, Issue #38. An unusual cover. A fashion photo taken by Patrick Demarchelier for a double issue about fashion. It was also Oliviero Toscani’s last issue. But it wasn’t a contradiction of the magazine’s core values (no news, no fashion, no famous people) rather an anthropological and visual trip through different ways people dress around the world. [Source: Colors Magazine]
What are the faculty’s credentials?
KF: Their expertise lies in Fashion and Film Photography, Still Life Photography, Intellectual Property, Professional Business Practices, Film Production, Fashion Editorial, Advanced Printing Techniques, Concept and Storytelling, Art Direction and Marketing.
What are the expected outcomes in terms of employability?
KF: Students graduating from the Master in Fashion Film and Photography would be prepared to enter the international job market with specific knowledge and skills in photography and film, but also with a greater understanding of the fashion market and its associated professions. The combination of studio work, research, and professional practice preparation will enable graduates to apply for positions as independent or salaried photographers and videographers, art directors, creative directors, editors, or communications and advertising bureaus.
© Jesse Frohman, ‘Kurt Kobain and Nirvana’. While earning a degree in economics at the University of Michigan, Jesse Frohman picked up a camera and never put it down. When he returned home to New York, he had no formal training or experience, but he did have a portfolio of platinum prints, which caught the interest of legendary photographer Irving Penn, who hired Jesse to manage his studio.It was an incomparable apprenticeship. To the techniques and aesthetics he leaned from Penn, Jesse added his own sensibilities of strength, dignity and quiet energy, all of which are evident in his pictures.Jesse has photographed countless celebrities and still lifes. In addition to his work for magazines, advertising, and recording companies, he has been commissioned to create two award-winning photographic books. His work is also in many private collections.Jesse lives and works in New York. [Source: Jesse Frohman]
What types of projects and companies will alumni be prepared for?
KF: PCA has closely established links with industry and other partners through past industry sponsorship agreements with companies such as L’Oreal, Hermes, Shiseido, Galeries Lafayette, Les Compagnons du Devoir, Promod and more. Our career services office assists students with securing internships. New links are sought and explored, to provide fashion film and photography students with a pertinent professional network. If freelancing/entrepreneurship is not your cup of tea, alumni will be able to work in a whole slew of fields like creative direction (e.g., Vogue, Marie Claire, Dazed, The Independent, Cosmopolitan), fashion editorial (e.g., Elle, A Magazine Curated By, Harper’s Bazaar, Large, Style Magazine), and communications and advertising bureaus (e.g., Publicis Worldwide, Aquent).
© David LaChapelle, ‘Pietà with Courtney Love’. David LaChapelle is known internationally for his exceptional talent in combining a unique hyper-realistic aesthetic with profound social messages.LaChapelle’s photography career began in the 1980’s when he began showing his artwork in New York City galleries. His work caught the eye of Andy Warhol, who offered him his first job as a photographer at Interview Magazine. His photographs of celebrities in Interview garnered positive attention, and before long he was shooting for a variety of top editorial publications and creating some of the most memorable advertising campaigns of his generation. In 2006, LaChapelle decided to minimize his participation in commercial photography, and return to his roots by focusing on fine art photography. Since then, he has been the subject of exhibitions in both commercial galleries and leading public institutions around the world. [Source: David LaChapelle]
What will students have in terms of a portfolio by the end of the program(s)? Is a portfolio even the right way to look at the end result?
KF: Upon graduation, students are expected to have achieved demonstrable skills in fashion film and photography image capturing and editing, an understanding of applied research methodologies, and increased teamwork and management skills. They will have practiced talking about their skills and competencies with professional employers and clients. The final portfolio is an original and coherent set of images that focus on still or moving images, or contain a combination of the two. At least one project in each medium (photography and video) is required. Students will also have a list of projects, generally visible online, likely talked about in blogs and journals.
© Michas Vanni, Student work at Paris College of Art (PCA)
© Geraldine Biasotto, Student work at Paris College of Art (PCA)
Founded in 1981, Paris College of Art (PCA) is a private university in Paris, France. The university is a US degree granting institution of higher learning and is accredited by the National Association of Schools of Art and Design (NASAD). PCA’s mission is to provide the highest standard of art and design education, taught within an American pedagogical paradigm, while being influenced and informed by our French and European environment. Our international faculty is comprised of 100 leaders in the art, design, and business industries in Europe and courses are taught in English. PCA offers an interdisciplinary education for students coming from 50 different countries, and awards Bachelor’s degrees in: Accessories Design; Art History, Theory & Criticism; Communication Design; Design Management; Fashion Design; Film / Video; Fine Arts; Illustration; Industrial Design; Interior Design; and Photography. The university also offers Master’s degrees in Transdisciplinary New Media as well as study abroad, certificate, and summer programs. Additional information is available here.